VIKING FARMER
ANIMAL CARE
RABBITS
Rabbits are becoming more popular as house pets. However, many adopt new pet rabbits without first researching the proper way to take care of them, and because of that they end up with various health issues that could have been prevented. Here are all of the things you need to know if you want to bring a new pet bunny into your home. DIET Rabbits are herbivores, meaning they eat plants. They’re built for a diet consisting of mainly large amounts of grass and leaves, as well as some flowers and fruits. GRASS HAY is the most important part of a rabbit’s diet. Examples of grass hay include timothy hay, meadow, oat, rye, barley and Bermuda grasses. Rabbits should have grass hay available to them at all times. It’s rich in vitamins, minerals and proteins and encourages healthy GI motility and the appropriate wearing down of teeth through chewing, and also decreases inappropriate chewing of other objects. Furthermore, grass hay helps create a full feeling in the rabbit’s stomach to prevent overeating and obesity. It’s proper for all ages. It’s suggested to feed a variety of two or more different types of grass hay. It is also better to feed sun dried hay over commercially dried hay because it retains more of its nutrients. Another type of hay available is legume hay, such as alfalfa and clover. Legume hays aren’t recommended because they have more calories, calcium and protein than a regular pet rabbit requires and may lead to GI disorders and obesity. It isn’t even recommended to mix grass hay and legume hay because the rabbit may pick out only the legume hay and overload on calories. It is also important not to feed straw because it’s nutrient-free and will cause severe nutritional deficiencies if it is a key part of their diet. Another important part of a bunny’s diet is GREEN FOODS. Green foods include dandelion greens, collard greens, kale, romaine lettuce, broccoli, brussel sprouts, celery and parsley. Green foods have all the same nutritional benefits as hay, but contain a broader selection of nutrients and also provide water to the diet. This is very important because rabbits don’t always drink as much as they should. If you feed the bunny a lot of greens, it is normal for them to drink less water. Green foods are great for the kidneys, bladder, and gastrointestinal tract. The diet shouldn’t consist of primarily green foods since they don’t have enough calories to sustain a rabbit’s normal body weight. Green foods are appropriate for all ages of rabbit. If it’s possible, you should buy organic or grow your own green foods, and make sure to wash all greens first. It is recommended to feed at least 3 varieties of greens daily. You should also include FRUITS AND VEGETABLES in your rabbit’s daily diet as treats. They can be used as a reward during training as well. Fruits and veggies are much healthier and cost less than commercial rabbit treats, which should be avoided because most are high in starch and fat and can cause serious health concerns. Examples of natural treats you can give to your bunny include apples, blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, cherries, cranberries, carrots, green or red bell peppers, mango, peach, pineapple and squash. You can also feed dried fruits, but should reduce to one third of the normal amount because they are so concentrated. Bananas and grapes are not recommended because rabbits can get hooked on these foods and may not want to eat anything else. COMMERCIAL PELLETS should only be fed as a small portion of a rabbit’s diet. It is easy to overfeed pellets because they don’t cause the feeling of fullness they get from eating hay, and the high level of calories can lead to obesity. Pellets also do not promote normal tooth wear, and the lack of chewing may lead to behavioural problems. The lack of water content could also result in urinary tract disease. Ideally, commercial pellets should only be 10% of a rabbit’s diet. Foods that you should completely AVOID FEEDING rabbits include high starch and fatty foods, like beans, bread, cereals, chocolate, corn, nuts, oats, peas, refined sugar, seeds, wheat, or any other grains. It is also not necessary to feed a healthy rabbit vitamins or other nutritional supplements because they will consume it in their diets, if fed properly. Misuse of these supplements can lead to severe medical issues. WATER should be available at all times for your bunny and changed daily. A dirty water container can be a breeding ground for bacteria. You can use either a water bottle or a heavy bowl secured to the side of the cage to avoid tipping. ENVIRONMENT A rabbit’s CAGE should allow them to stand on their hind legs without hitting their heads on the top of the cage, have space for a litter box and a resting area, be easy to clean, and be made of metal or another indestructible material. Cages should be kept in a cool and well-ventilated area. It’s not recommended to place your rabbit’s cage in the basement because it is usually too damp and could cause respiratory disease. If the area is too hot, the rabbit can potentially suffer from fatal heat stroke. Rabbits can be caged outdoors, although it is not ideal. If they are going to be outside, they will require shelter from precipitation and extreme temperatures. They should be safe from predators like dogs, coyotes and raccoons. The cage should be kept clean to not attract parasitic insects. In the winter, straw bedding can be used as insulation. The water bowl should be changed daily, especially in the winter when it can freeze. Pet rabbits should never be kept in a cage at all times. They need daily exercise to stay healthy, and to prevent physical or behavioural disorders. Rabbits should be let out into a larger EXERCISE AREA to run, jump and move around for at least a few hours every day. If you don’t want to give your bunny free access to the home, you can buy a pen or make one with exercise fencing panels for dogs, which are found at most pet stores. The pen should be at least 3 feet tall. This will keep the rabbit away from furniture, electrical cords and toxic materials around the house. You can also place a pen outside to allow the rabbit access to grassy areas, but never leave them outside unsupervised. If you do allow the bunny to freely roam the house, you should first rabbit-proof the area. Block all escape routes out of the home, and cover or block all electrical cords. You can also cover your furniture to protect it from teeth or claws. Remove all toxic plants, rodenticides, insecticides and other toxins from your rabbit’s reach. Rabbits can be LITTER BOX trained very easily. Restrict the rabbit to a small area and place a litter box in the corner, preferably where the rabbit has already chosen to go to the bathroom. Sides should be low enough so the rabbit can get in and out without difficulty. You can place some droppings in the litter box to encourage the bunny to use it, as well as some hay. Rabbits tend to pass stools while eating. There should be one more litter box provided than the number of rabbits in the home. The best bedding to use in the litter box is pelleted litter. It is non-toxic and if eaten, it is digestible. It also draws moisture away from the surface, keeping it drier and controlling odor well. Do not use clay or clumping kitty litter because if the rabbit ingests it, it could cause a potentially fatal intestinal blockage. Rabbits also need a RESTING/HIDING AREA in their environment. A box full of hay is enough for some rabbits, while others prefer an enclosed box to hide in. You can use an untreated wicker or straw basket, litter pan, or a cardboard box with an entrance hole and bottom removed. If the cage has a wire floor, they should also be provided with a solid area they can rest, with washable or disposable material. Don’t use carpet squares because they are not absorbent, are abrasive to their little feet, and they can’t be cleaned. They can also be easily eaten and are the #1 cause of obstruction in rabbits. Lastly, they should be provided with plenty of toys for mental stimulation and to help wear down the teeth. Dry branches from untreated trees, wooden chew toys for birds, and unfinished, unpainted wicker or straw baskets are perfect chewing toys for rabbits. They also like things that can move, such as toilet paper rolls, small empty cardboard cartons, and small piles of shredded paper, or air filled balls. You can hide treats in their toys to encourage foraging behaviour. HANDLING Your rabbit’s backbone is fragile and can fracture very easily if the rabbit gives a strong kick, so it is always important to support the hind end. Never pick a bunny up by the ears because it’s painful for them and simply not necessary. It’s better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders and scoop the rabbit up under the chest. Then, place the other hand under the back legs to lift from the floor. When you’re first learning how to handle a rabbit, it’s better to practice close to the floor so that if the rabbit jumps out of your arms, it won’t be a big fall. SPAYING/NEUTERING Spaying and neutering your cat or dog is a very important and beneficial decision to make, and that is no different when it comes to your pet rabbit. The best age to spay/neuter a rabbit is between 4-6 months of age, which is just before they reach sexual maturity. A rabbit should always be examined by a veterinarian prior to anesthesia to ensure it is healthy enough for surgery. Spaying is the surgical removal of uterus and ovaries, and is especially important because it prevents a very common malignant cancer in rabbits called UTERINE ADENOCARCINOMA, occurring in approximately 80% of unspayed females over the age of 2. This cancer spreads rapidly to other organs and is not treatable once it does so. Spaying would also be crucial in a home with males and females living together to prevent a PREGNANCY from occurring. Other uterine diseases you would avoid include pyometra (when the uterus gets infected and fills with pus), uterine aneurism (blood clot in the uterus), and endometritis (inflamed uterine lining). There aren’t many common reproductive diseases in male rabbits, however some potential issues include testicular abscesses from bites, hematomas, and testicular cancer. Male rabbits also have a tendency to have AGGRESSION issues around 8-18 months of age, and can also start spraying to mark territory. All of these issues can be prevented by getting your rabbit neutered, which means surgically removing the testicles. The aggression can only be controlled if the neuter occurs before the behavior begins or shortly thereafter. Care Advice by VetCare Pet Hospital
HAMSTERS
Hamsters can make great little pets but can require more work than you might think. They live an average lifespan of only 2-3 years and, depending on breed, can grow up to 4-7 inches long and weigh 100-150 grams. They are nocturnal animals, meaning they sleep during the day and are active at night. This makes them the perfect companion for night-owls. This also means you probably shouldn’t have their cage in your bedroom as they will likely keep you up at night. HampsterCare2 The most common breed of hamster that is kept as a pet is the Syrian hamster. They are more commonly referred to as golden hamsters or teddy bear hamsters and are considered to be the friendliest option for families with children. It is important to note however that while Syrian hamsters don’t typically nip at their owners, they will turn violent in pairs and fight over territory. For this reason, hamsters should always be housed alone. HampsterCare3DIET In the wild, hamsters feed on plants, seeds, fruit, and insects. The current diet recommendation for pet hamsters is pelleted rodent ration with 15-20% protein, sometimes sold in dry block form. Seed diets are also available for hamsters; however, they tend to be high in fat and can lead to obesity and calcium deficiencies when fed alone. Other supplements and treats that can be given in moderation include fresh fruits and vegetables, sugarless breakfast cereals, and cheese. Recommended fruits and veggies include broccoli, apples, pears, parsley, carrots and turnips. Avoid onions, garlic, chives, leeks, lettuce, potatoes, and oranges. A clean stick of fruitwood to chew on can also help wear their growing teeth down. They should always have fresh water available to them as well, most easily via sipper bottles on their cage. Make sure the sipper tube is low enough that the hamster can comfortably reach it and that the water is changed at least once daily. HampsterCare4HOUSING There are several types of hamster cages available. They do best with wire, stainless steel, durable plastic or glass. Glass and plastic cages do however have poorer ventilation, so these habitats should have at least one side open for air circulation to prevent high humidity, high temperature, and odour concentration. Materials such as wood, light plastic, and soft metal should be avoided because hamsters love to chew and can chew through them. Rounded corners are also best for this same reason. Cage accessories are a must with these little guys! Exercise wheels are the best choice to keep your hamster happy and avoid boredom. Solid plastic wheels are safer than wheels made of wire. You can also purchase a large plastic ball to put your hamster in so they can run around a room and explore. This can be great fun for them but, of course, this should always be done under your supervision. Other great options for your hamster include tunnels and nesting boxes. If you have a habitat with plastic tubing for tunnels, make sure they are big enough that your hamster won’t be at risk of getting stuck. Providing them with deep bedding will also allow them to burrow. Bedding should be clean, non-toxic, absorbent, and dust-free. Recommended examples include shredded paper, shredded tissue, wood shavings, and processed corn cob. If you are using wood shavings or corn cob, it should always be inspected for mould, mildew or other contaminants before using. Avoided any scented bedding, which contains chemicals that can cause respiratory issues, as well as clumping litter that can cause digestive issues in your little hammy. The cage and all accessories should be cleaned with regular soap and water one to two times per week. Bedding should be completely changed on a weekly basis as well. HampsterCare5HANDLING Hamsters should be picked up by gently cupping them in one or both hands and holding them against your body. Many people believe that all hamsters are aggressive and will bite, however, hamsters that are frequently handled from a young age usually remain quite docile and friendly. If a hamster is new to you and you are unsure of its personality, always use caution when approaching in case they haven’t been handled much before and may want to bite or turn aggressive. Even docile hamsters may bite if surprised or awakened, so keep this in mind. Written by Stephanie, RVT, Care Advice by VetCare Pet Hospital
FERRETS
Ferrets are members of the weasel family that have been domesticated for over 2000 years. They are highly intelligent and social pets and, even though they seem just like a small, easy to care for a pocket pet, they are a big responsibility and often require just as much care as a cat or dog, if not more! ABOUT FERRETS Ferrets live an average lifespan of 5-7 years, however, the current record for the oldest ferret is 14 years old! They are very curious little creatures. Because they are social animals, if you are going to adopt a ferret, please consider taking in a pair so they will never be lonely. It is recommended to avoid adopting a ferret if you have small children in the home. They are very fragile animals and can be easily injured if handled inappropriately or dropped. Like a cat, they love to nap and usually sleep up to 20 hours a day. When they are awake, however, they are very active and playful pets! They love to bounce around and invite you to play with them. If you start bouncing around with them, this will often make them happy. They love crawling through just about anything, including cardboard boxes, PVC piping, clothes dryer hoses, paper bags, and even pant legs or long shirt sleeves. They tend to play rough and will often playfully nip in the beginning, so it is important to teach them not to. GROOMING Even though ferrets are naturally clean animals, they are very well known for their musky odour. No matter how many times you bathe a ferret, the odour will never completely go away. This scent is much worse in unneutered ferrets, but luckily almost all of the domestic ferrets in North America are neutered at the time of weaning, so we don’t really have to worry about this. They also have a pair of anal glands similar to cats and dogs, with very strong-smelling secretions. They rarely express these anal glands unless very scared and the scent often goes away after a few minutes. Again, most ferrets you find around here have already had these glands surgically removed, so you only have to deal with a mild musky odour from the oils in the skin. Bathing should be kept to a minimum – at most, once or twice a month. Bathing a ferret will strip its skin and coat of all of the natural (mildly stinky) oils, which will cause the body to overcompensate and keep producing more and more. Basically, over-bathing a ferret can cause its odour to get even worse. They usually do a pretty good job of cleaning themselves much like a cat. If you give them a bowl of water, they will use it to clean their face. Bathing is, however, good for relieving itchiness caused by fleas or dry skin. If you are going to bathe a ferret, make sure you use pet-friendly shampoo and warm bath water. DIET Ferrets, like cats, are obligate carnivores. This means they absolutely require meat in their diet. A ferret-appropriate diet should have a high level of fat as its main source of calories, and also be rich in highly digestible meat-based protein. Vegetable protein is poorly digested by ferrets, and can actually lead to certain medical issues, such as bladder stones, skin diseases, GI disease and poor growth. It is also important to note that ferrets cannot digest fibre, so high levels of grains should also be avoided when choosing a diet for your new pet. The absolute best diet for a ferret is whole prey foods, such as mice and rats, similar to a snake. Understandably, many owners may not feel comfortable feeding that to their pet, so the next best option would be either a specialized ferret diet made specifically for their nutritional requirements or a high-quality kitten food you would find at a vet clinic. If you do buy a special ferret diet, make sure to check the ingredient list that it is appropriate and isn’t fish based. They need the best quality nutrients because they have a very short GI tract and simple gut bacteria, or “flora”, so there are only 3-4 hours for their body to digest their food and absorb its nutrients. If you want to give your ferret a treat, the best option would be a small piece of high-quality meat, such as chicken or turkey. Avoid the ferret-specific treats on the market, because most of them have no meat in them at all, but rather mostly grains and sweeteners. Feeding this to a ferret can be quite dangerous to their health. Even though they may like the taste of sweet foods like fruits, it is best not to feed them those as treats either. It is a very good idea to allow your ferret to experience a variety of different foods at an early age so they become accustomed to different flavours and diets. If you change food or flavours abruptly with an adult ferret, that could potentially make them sick. If ferrets are being fed an appropriate high-quality diet, they likely won’t require any supplements other than maybe a fatty acid supplement to help with dry coat and flaky skin. Fresh water should be available to your ferret at all times and changed regularly. HABITAT Ferret cages should be a minimum of 18 x 18 x 30 inches and have two or more levels with stairs or ramps they can climb. Wire cages work best. Avoid using aquariums as they have very poor ventilation. The cage should have very small gaps and a secured latch to prevent them from escaping – you would be surprised how small of an opening they can squeeze through! The floor should be covered in washable carpet, linoleum flooring, etc. as the wires can hurt their little feet. For flooring, avoid using newspaper (will turn their feet black), wood flooring (difficult to disinfect) and cedar or pine chips (may cause respiratory issues, holds in bad odors). You should provide your ferrets with hammocks or shelves to perch on, as well as some sort of dark enclosure they can nest in. Bedding, such as towels or blankets, should be washed often. As for toys, stick to the ones that encourage the ferret’s need to burrow or hunt. As previously mentioned, they love items they can tunnel through. For the hunting aspect, they enjoy playing with small balls, feather cat toys, or small cloth baby toys. Avoid foam or latex rubber toys as they will likely chew on them and swallow some, causing a GI obstruction. Ferrets need exercise and mental enrichment and therefore should not be caged 24 hours a day. They should always be supervised when outside of their cage. The areas you allow your ferret to explore should be very strictly “ferret-proofed”. For example, you should make sure they can not reach any electrical wires, dangerous substances or breakable items. Cover any gaps they can fit through, such as under doors, windows and dryer vents. They have been known to escape the house this way. Check all clothing before purring in the washing machine. Check the dishwasher before turning it on. Make sure you know where the ferret is before reclining a chair’s foot rest. Ferrets can be litter box trained! You should provide them with several litter boxes – one in the cage and multiple boxes in their playing area. They should always have a box, pee pad or newspaper close by because, as mentioned under “DIET”, they have a short GI tract and therefore cannot hold it in very long. They like it in the corner of the room the best. Do not use clumping cat litter, but instead pelleted litter products, such as Yesterday’s News, or even shredded paper. They don’t cover their messes like a cat does, so you will have to scoop their litter boxes more often. Ferrets should be kept away from direct sunlight. A cool, shaded area is best. Hot weather can be a worry, so if you know the temperature is above 27C, be sure to check on the ferret often and point a fan at the cage if possible. HEALTH Just like with every other pet, ferrets have their own set of potential health issues and should be examined by a vet regularly. The exact recommendations are annual check-ups up until 5 years of age, and then every 6 months after that. Vaccines are highly recommended, specifically for rabies and distemper. They are also at a pretty high risk for fleas and should always be treated with a monthly preventive. Speak to your veterinarian about the best choice for your ferret. It is very important for ferrets to be spayed and neutered before reaching sexual maturity, which can be anytime between 6-12 months. This is especially crucial for females because once they are in heat, they stay in heat until mated, which can lead to a few different fatal conditions like pyometra and aplastic anemia. Fortunately, as mentioned earlier, almost all ferrets you find in North America have already been altered at a young age. It’s also important to note that their ears tend to get quite waxy and they would benefit from a regular ear cleaning every two weeks to a month. Make sure you use pet-friendly ear cleaner. It is also recommended to regularly trim your ferret’s nails every couple of weeks at least, as they can get quite long and sharp and potentially get caught in bedding, carpet, etc. and cause injury. You should ask a veterinarian to show you the proper way to clean your ferret’s ears and trim its nails to prevent any unintentional damage or harm. Some of the most common conditions we see in ferrets include physical injury, adrenal disease, insulinoma (or pancreatic cancer), skin tumors, human influenza, foreign bodies (or blockages) in the stomach or intestines, epizootic catarrhal enteritis (or “green slime disease”), heart disease, Aleutian disease, and other cancers. If you are concerned your ferret may have a medical condition or would like to learn more about the ones I listed, please call your veterinarian (don’t trust Dr. Google!). Written by Stephanie, RVT Care Advice by VetCare Pet Hospital
Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are tail-less rodents with long, short, or sometimes wild hair that ranges in color. When full grown, they weigh around 1-2 pounds and are 8-10 inches long. Guinea pigs typically live for 5-8 years. Described as cuddly and comical, guinea pigs love to vocalize with squeals, chirps, squeaks, and whistles. They make wonderful pets for children and can be very social animals. Guinea pigs are hardy little animals, and their easy care makes them especially affordable pets! Guinea pigs require unlimited amounts of fresh green grass hay (usually timothy). Alfalfa hay and alfalfa treats are okay for young guinea pigs and pregnant or malnourished adults, but otherwise should not be given on a regular basis. Most guinea pig pellets are alfalfa based, which is fairly high in calcium. Feeding additional alfalfa hay or treats may provide too much calcium and lead to bladder stone problems in some guinea pigs. Feed pellets made specifically for guinea pigs. Use a heavy bowl that cannot be tipped. Feed approximately ¼ - ½ c. of fresh pellets per animal daily. Avoid brands that contain lots of seeds and nuts, because the fat content of these foods is often too high for adult guinea pigs and they make choke on large or whole seeds. Fresh water must always be available, preferably in an easy-to-reach water bottle. Food bowls and water bottles should be cleaned and refilled with fresh food and water daily. Guinea pigs require vitamin C on a daily basis. Since the vitamin C in pellets can dissipate over time, vitamin C can be supplemented by adding the proper dose of powdered or liquid vitamin C to the guinea pig's food or water, by giving it orally, or by supplementing the diet with high C fruits and veggies (although it's more difficult to supplement the correct amount). The recommended dosage is 30 mg/day for an average adult. Liquid C, a human supplement sold at most health and nutrition stores, is a pleasant tasting liquid and is easy to administer. Fresh greens and vegetables can be fed in moderation. Too large a quantity or variety can cause diarrhea or other digestive or nutritional problems. Guinea pigs can be given: parsley, bell peppers, romaine lettuce, live wheat grass (sold at some pet stores), carrot tops, celery leaves, clover, spinach, green alfalfa, chemical-free dandelion leaves and fresh grass, carrots, grapes, apple, cranberry (also dried cranberry), and a little citrus fruit. Vegetables belonging to the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, cauliflower) should be very limited (or avoided) as they can cause bloat, a serious condition. Fresh foods should always be thoroughly rinsed. Introduce any new food item in small amounts to allow a guinea pig's system to adjust to it gradually. The best guinea pig cages are usually wire cages with a solid bottom (metal or plastic) that are easily removed for cleaning. Wire cage bottoms are not recommended as they can easily injure your pet’s toes or feet. A cage for a single guinea pig should be at least 24” wide x 24” long and at minimum 15” high. For two or more guinea pigs, a minimum 24” x 36” floor size is recommended. Add a small house inside the cage so the guinea pig has a private refuge when stressed or tired. This can be a small cardboard box or a commercially produced house available at your local pet store. Aquariums and plastic tubs are NOT recommended. They are usually not large enough, do not offer proper ventilation, and isolate the guinea pig from its surroundings by inhibiting sight, sound, and smell. If you are not finding suitable cages at your local pet store, Jack Pine Guinea Pig Rescue* in Stacy, Minnesota can be a good source for more information on where to find an appropriate cage. You can also build your own cage. Bedding To ensure the good health of your guinea pig, bedding must be kept clean. Aspen or kiln-dried pine shavings are good, inexpensive bedding. Hay/straw can be used but is messier to clean and not as absorbent. The recycled pelleted beddings on the market are very nice but more expensive. Cedar bedding and pine bedding NOT kiln-dried is not acceptable, as the oils in the wood pose health risks to guinea pigs. Temperature A guinea pig must be an indoor pet except in tropical climates. When providing housing for guinea pigs, keep the area dry and free from drafts, and maintain a temperature between 65-79 degrees. A guinea pig’s cage should be in an environment that's well lit (but not exposed to direct sunlight) and offers the guinea pig access to daily human activities. Playtime and exercise A suitably sized cage and play time with you every day will meet your guinea pig's exercise needs. Exercise wheels or balls are not recommended as guinea pigs usually don't enjoy them and they may even injure your pet's spine, legs, or feet. Handling When picking up your guinea pig, be sure to support his entire body with two hands. Guinea pigs are easily injured if dropped, and may nip or bite if not properly handled. Children should always be supervised when handling guinea pigs. Meeting new animal friends Interactions with dogs, cats, and other pets should always be carefully supervised. Never leave a guinea pig unattended in the presence of a dog, cat, ferret, or any other predatory animal. Pet care advice provided by Animal Humane Society